General Discussion Triathlon Talk » Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities Rss Feed  
Moderators: k9car363, alicefoeller Reply
 
 
of 3
 
 
2009-08-05 11:34 AM
in reply to: #1690926

User image

Expert
792
500100100252525
Leicester
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
I'm new to Tri, but not new to bikes.
The tools and maintenance above seems a good spread so nothing to add there.

One item I would mention is to wash BY HAND, AVOID power washer or other presurised device.
Just warm soapy water and a sponge if it's real dirty, otherwise just wipe down with a damp microfibre cloth.

It may seem obvious once stated but using a power washer can force water past seals in areas like the head set and pedal bearings and that water will not dry out quickly because of the seals it just pushed past.

I come from MTB and obviously dirt bikes get dirty, so the temptation is greater to power wash a filthy Mountain bike than a slightly dust road bike, but a road bike is not as burly in most joints and seals are smaller and lighter than MTB so the chance of entrained water is higher on a road bike.


2009-10-05 1:27 PM
in reply to: #2134025

User image

Champion
7542
5000200050025
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Bronze member
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities

gonnafinish plscheer - 2009-05-06 11:20 AM Hey guys- how do I know when I need to replace my bike chain and or the rear gears?  I think it is starting to skip but I can't tell if the chain is stretched or the rear gears are just worn down..?  I guess it would have helped if I had looked at them 'before' when they were new...  oops.

Could be cable adjustment more than the chain/cassette. 



Edited by McFuzz 2009-10-05 1:28 PM
2009-10-05 1:30 PM
in reply to: #1690926

User image

Champion
7542
5000200050025
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Bronze member
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities

Thin wrenches.  As someone else said, the cone wrenches come in very handy (for more than just cone bearings).  Brake adjustments usually require a thin wrench on the inner nut and a second wrench (doesn't have to be thin) on the outer one. 

2009-12-21 12:41 AM
in reply to: #1690926

User image

Master
2406
2000100100100100
Bellevue, WA
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
I didn't learn how to work on my bike, I learned how to work on cars years ago and mostly what I learned was what Harry Callahan said: "A man's got to know his limitations."

I have little desire to become a bike mechanic, and I have little desire to go broke paying $$$ to the LBS for simple work. Thus I'm looking for the sweet spot of doing my own simple work and paying the LBS for the rest. I expect most people are looking for that sweet spot too.

After 9 years as a cyclist, here are the simple things I do myself:

I swap tires and fix flats. That means tire levers, and a quality pump. I use CO2 on the road and a floor pump at home. Buy a quality pump. Life is too short to put up with a crappy pump.

I clean the thing. That means Simple Green degreaser, Box o' Rags, that sort of thing, and some brushes. I suppose I could get a chain breaker but I don't own one. I've heard the "shake it in a 2 liter soda bottle with solvent" works well. So does my $12 chain degreaser thing. The kit included a little brush for cleaning the cassette. Works well.

I've dismantled the bike for transport. That means a 4/5/6 allen wrench, which is on any folding seat-bag type mult-tool. I have a set of 3/8" allen sockets from Sears that I use with a small torque wrench. I bought mine because I was afraid of the seat post bolts on my P3C. Knowing things are tightened properly brings great peace of mind. I learned when cars were my hobby that you don't just crank on things, you tighten to the specified torque. I bought a pedal wrench before I found out most pedals work with allen wrenches too, so I don't use it much.

In short, allen wrenches, allen sockets, a torque wrench, a multitool, and some cleaners and brushes, and you're in business 90% of the time.

The other 10% of the time I have I have the LBS do it. In 9 years I've maybe spent $300 on LBS labor, mostly things like cassette, chain, chainring replacements. I watched the guy do the last cassette replacement and other than the special tool, it was trivial. Maybe I'll get the special tool and that chain breaker next time I need it done and do it myself. Maybe.

Oh, and I do own a stand. Got it for Father's Day years ago. For convenience, it's hard to beat. Using the trainer or a bike rack works well too.

Edited by brucemorgan 2009-12-21 12:45 AM
2010-01-22 1:06 PM
in reply to: #2140894

User image

Champion
4835
2000200050010010010025
Eat Cheese or Die
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
gearboy - 2009-05-09 6:40 PM

gonnafinish plscheer - 2009-05-06 12:20 PM Hey guys- how do I know when I need to replace my bike chain and or the rear gears?  I think it is starting to skip but I can't tell if the chain is stretched or the rear gears are just worn down..?  I guess it would have helped if I had looked at them 'before' when they were new...  oops.


Cheap way - line up a ruler at center of one of the pins.  At the 12 inch mark, there should also be a pin lined up. 
Gear way - get a chain wear indicator tool (they are fairly cheap - this one by Park - not know for being inexpensive- is only $10).  If it fits completely in between links, they are stretched. In which case, you need to look closely at the cassette as well, to see if there is too much wear on the cogs and it would also need replacing.


Not only is it the cheap way, but a good ruler is the most accurate way. IMHO chain wear indicators are a waste of money. I have had more brand new, out of the box chains then I care to remember come up as worn using an indicator. Measure the chain with a good metal ruler like park's http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=16&item=SBC-1

From the all knowing Sheldon Brown -

This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets:

* If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.

* If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.

* If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.

* If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html


2010-01-28 3:52 PM
in reply to: #2629223

User image

Pro
6767
500010005001001002525
the Alabama part of Pennsylvania
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
graceful_dave - 2010-01-22 2:06 PM
 Not only is it the cheap way, but a good ruler is the most accurate way. IMHO chain wear indicators are a waste of money. I have had more brand new, out of the box chains then I care to remember come up as worn using an indicator. Measure the chain with a good metal ruler like park's http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=16&item=SBC-1From the all knowing Sheldon Brown - This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets: * If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well. * If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged. * If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets. * If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html


You sound like mrs gearboy, about almost everything I own.  But that doesn't make it LESS accurate than a ruler - just more gear intensive.  I haven't had any chains get a false positive for wear with my chain wear tools - and I've used two different brands since I lost the first one (mrs gearboy: "don't you already have one of those things? How many of them do you need?!?").


2010-03-01 5:31 PM
in reply to: #1691203

User image

Elite
3658
200010005001002525
Roswell, GA
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities

autigers_1998 - 2008-09-23 3:42 PM

Don't forget a bike stand. While not a necessity, definitely makes doing anything on a bike so much easier. We had been using our pulley that hangs the bike in the garage but a stand is 100 times better.

I use my trailer hitch mounted bike rack.  Works like a charm in the driveway or the race parking lot.

2010-03-12 2:24 PM
in reply to: #2640914

User image

Champion
4835
2000200050010010010025
Eat Cheese or Die
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
gearboy - 2010-01-28 3:52 PM

graceful_dave - 2010-01-22 2:06 PM
 Not only is it the cheap way, but a good ruler is the most accurate way. IMHO chain wear indicators are a waste of money. I have had more brand new, out of the box chains then I care to remember come up as worn using an indicator. Measure the chain with a good metal ruler like park's http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=16&item=SBC-1From the all knowing Sheldon Brown - This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets: * If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well. * If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged. * If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets. * If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html


You sound like mrs gearboy, about almost everything I own.  But that doesn't make it LESS accurate than a ruler - just more gear intensive.  I haven't had any chains get a false positive for wear with my chain wear tools - and I've used two different brands since I lost the first one (mrs gearboy: "don't you already have one of those things? How many of them do you need?!?").


I'm going to disagree. It's nothing about the amount of gear. I do believe that chain wear tools are less accurate. I have had false positives enough that I do not beleive them to be accurate tools. I also feel that the time saved with a chain wear indicator vs measuring with a ruler is not worth the cost of the indicator, but this is not my main issue with them. Like I stated, I do beleive they are less accurate.

You are welcome to do what you wish, but I'd rather spend my money on other more useful gear.
2010-07-23 7:12 AM
in reply to: #1690926

User image

Extreme Veteran
432
10010010010025
Pelzer, SC
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
In my opinion, having a tool kit and bike stand are priceless. Because of the bike stand, I do more bike/chain cleaning. It makes it way easier. Learning to adjust your derailleurs is a great skill as well. I've had many friends with brand new bikes that still need adjustment. I've now purchased two bikes from bikes-direct. I've saved at least $120 by assembling them myself. That paid for the tools and stand.
2010-08-06 9:31 AM
in reply to: #1690926

User image

Member
29
25
Sherwood Park, Ab
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
How do you guys feel about the 37 piece kits offered by Park tools and Sette? (I think thats how you spell it?)

Better to get individual tools or go with the kit?
2010-10-03 2:17 PM
in reply to: #1690926

User image

Member
25
25
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
As a beginner, it was important for me to learn basic bike maintenance from the get go.
A couple of months ago I bought the Park Chain Cleaner, and the results where amazing - the chain on my 5 years old Marida 901 really shone.. I'd recommend getting that cleaner to anyone.
Only problem is, the Park citrus chain brite degreaser, which does an amazing job, is pretty expansive, but does an amazing job. 
If you have any suggestions for a cheaper alternative, I'd love to hear.

Yossi
 


2010-10-13 1:57 PM
in reply to: #3130484

User image

Pro
6767
500010005001001002525
the Alabama part of Pennsylvania
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
technoyos - 2010-10-03 3:17 PM As a beginner, it was important for me to learn basic bike maintenance from the get go.
A couple of months ago I bought the Park Chain Cleaner, and the results where amazing - the chain on my 5 years old Marida 901 really shone.. I'd recommend getting that cleaner to anyone.
Only problem is, the Park citrus chain brite degreaser, which does an amazing job, is pretty expansive, but does an amazing job. 
If you have any suggestions for a cheaper alternative, I'd love to hear.

Yossi
 


Zipp citrus degreaser, from Home Depot.  Sold by the gallon.  I go through a gallon roughly each year, and I work on my bikes, mrs gearboy's bikes, the kids' bikes when they are around, friends' bikes, etc.
2010-10-25 10:11 AM
in reply to: #3150086

User image

Champion
4835
2000200050010010010025
Eat Cheese or Die
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
gearboy - 2010-10-13 1:57 PM

technoyos - 2010-10-03 3:17 PM As a beginner, it was important for me to learn basic bike maintenance from the get go.
A couple of months ago I bought the Park Chain Cleaner, and the results where amazing - the chain on my 5 years old Marida 901 really shone.. I'd recommend getting that cleaner to anyone.
Only problem is, the Park citrus chain brite degreaser, which does an amazing job, is pretty expansive, but does an amazing job. 
If you have any suggestions for a cheaper alternative, I'd love to hear.

Yossi
 


Zipp citrus degreaser, from Home Depot.  Sold by the gallon.  I go through a gallon roughly each year, and I work on my bikes, mrs gearboy's bikes, the kids' bikes when they are around, friends' bikes, etc.


I buy Simple Green in the big jug at home depot. Used full strength it is an excellent degreaser. I can mix up a batch of diluted Simple green in a spray bottle for clean and then keep the concentrated stuff for chain clean.
2011-03-14 3:03 PM
in reply to: #1690926

User image

New user
10

LA county
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities

Don't know if this was mentioned already but a good investment each triathlete needs to have is the Vittoria Pit Stop tire sealant. Works really well especially if you run tubs on your wheels. I used to ride with a whole wheel bag but the Pit Stop got rid of all that.

2011-06-11 12:50 PM
in reply to: #1691665


87
252525
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
gearboy - 2008-09-23 6:27 PM

Oh, and when you take out any ball bearings, don't be near any drains or slopes leading to drains.  Just trust me on this one.




I can imagine that led to an abundance of cursing.  I would be swearing up a storm, I can see it now!

Thanks for the informative response btw.  As a relatively new cyclist, I'll be adding this thread to my favorites.
2011-06-27 8:26 AM
in reply to: #1690926

User image

Veteran
572
5002525
Hudson Valley
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities

A bike stand is essential in the garage. It makes cleaning the bike go so much faster. You can adjust the height of the bike to a personal level. Hex wrenches are the next most used tools.

On the road, I rely on a pair of plastic Pedro tire levers and a frame pump. Mini pumps which mount between the waterbottle cage and frame provide ais also do the job.

Learning everything you can about bike repair and tools. Helping people day of race or on organised rides is a great way to make friends.



2012-05-23 11:18 AM
in reply to: #1690926

User image

Expert
1544
100050025
Alexandria, MN
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
What's everyone's favorite bike maintenance book?  Does the Zinn Road Bike book cover everything I ought to know about tribikes as well?  Such as dealing with bar end shifters and brakes vs. road bike shifters and brakes?
2012-07-25 8:06 AM
in reply to: #4225182

User image

Veteran
572
5002525
Hudson Valley
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
I have both Zinn's and Todd Down's books. Zinn's has a fun feel to it. Downes has more pictures and addresses a wider range of bikes. I don't have the Park Tool "Blue Book", but that is also supposed to be top notch. Any of books will will be helpful.
2013-04-23 6:40 PM
in reply to: #1922672

User image

Master
2629
200050010025
brummie land
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
Daremo - 2008-09-24 10:28 Pretty much everything basic you need has been listed, but I'll add the two most important that I can't beleive no one has mentioned.Common senseFinesseIf you don't know how they apply, don't work on your own bike.
Spent over a (curse filled and scream filled and throwing things across the room) hour trying to switch out saddles!!! Replacement ended up at 45 degree angle and I gave up! No finesse for sure and not much common sense either! Off to my lbs in the morning before I cry. Anybody else utterly crap at fixing their bike?

Edited by sappho96 2013-04-23 6:42 PM
2013-05-05 9:42 AM
in reply to: #1690926

User image

Member
124
100
The 951
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities

For the garage for basic cleaning/maintenance

A set of Torx wrenches

Long (as in LONG) Allen wrenches that can be used for pedals or crankarms

A good torque wrench

A chain tool compatible with your drivetrain brand

Compatible BB tool

Compatible cassette tool

Cone wrenches for some brakes and hubs

 

I don't futz with cables (yet) and leave the wheel truing stuff to the LBS. Gotta give them money somehow!

 

2014-11-21 11:01 AM
in reply to: #1690926

User image


25
25
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
Love this thread! Have read carefully through. I have basic tools but definitely want to get more involved with maint. and fixing my own bike. Thanks for the sound advice to date!


2016-03-16 8:35 PM
in reply to: journeytoironwoman

User image

Veteran
572
5002525
Hudson Valley
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
I cleaned my bike at the end of last season and threw away the chain since it was worn down. Last weekend I installed a new chain (and brand), tuned the shifting on the bike stand, and took it for a ride. The drivetrain sounded normal until I applied power to accelerate a little. The chain began to slip of the cogs of the cassette. I stopped to adjust the cable tension. I took off again, and under strong power the chain slipped. So I took it easy the rest of the ride.

When I got home I did some diagnostic using the wind trainer. The cassette on the wind trainer is nearly new, so I tried my bike with the new chain on the nearly new cassette. It worked, so I swapped the cassettes. I tried the old cassette with the bike that was on the trainer because its chain was nearly new, but a different brand. Everything worked fine.

I went for a ride with the new chain and new cassette. The chain didn't slip, but no matter how much I adjusted the cable tension, there were over and under shifts occurring.

When I got home I took the other new chain and old cassette off the wind trainer, and put them on my road bike. My first ride with them was just how I wanted.

What had happened was the old cassette had a certain wear pattern from a certain brand of chain for nearly 8000 miles. When I used a different brand of chain, it didn't match the wearing in the cassette, much like would happen if you wore a friend's pair of shoes. They would fit, but they have conformed to your friend's feet. Be careful switching brands of chains and cassettes, especially when the cassette has been used a lot or they are made by different manufacturers.
2016-04-27 4:28 PM
in reply to: #5069038


6

Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
Great info for a new racer.

Ryker77
2016-05-16 4:23 PM
in reply to: Six000MileYear

User image


1941
100050010010010010025
, Vermont
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
Originally posted by Six000MileYear

I cleaned my bike at the end of last season and threw away the chain since it was worn down. Last weekend I installed a new chain (and brand), tuned the shifting on the bike stand, and took it for a ride. The drivetrain sounded normal until I applied power to accelerate a little. The chain began to slip of the cogs of the cassette. I stopped to adjust the cable tension. I took off again, and under strong power the chain slipped. So I took it easy the rest of the ride.

When I got home I did some diagnostic using the wind trainer. The cassette on the wind trainer is nearly new, so I tried my bike with the new chain on the nearly new cassette. It worked, so I swapped the cassettes. I tried the old cassette with the bike that was on the trainer because its chain was nearly new, but a different brand. Everything worked fine.

I went for a ride with the new chain and new cassette. The chain didn't slip, but no matter how much I adjusted the cable tension, there were over and under shifts occurring.

When I got home I took the other new chain and old cassette off the wind trainer, and put them on my road bike. My first ride with them was just how I wanted.

What had happened was the old cassette had a certain wear pattern from a certain brand of chain for nearly 8000 miles. When I used a different brand of chain, it didn't match the wearing in the cassette, much like would happen if you wore a friend's pair of shoes. They would fit, but they have conformed to your friend's feet. Be careful switching brands of chains and cassettes, especially when the cassette has been used a lot or they are made by different manufacturers.


Good info, thanks for the heads up!
2016-07-16 8:57 AM
in reply to: brian

User image

Veteran
572
5002525
Hudson Valley
Subject: RE: Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities
The past couple of weeks I developed a creak while riding.

The first thing I did was to inspect the shoe cleat. It was worn to the point of breaking any moment. I'm glad replaced the cleat before an accident / injury occurred. The creaking stopped, and then came back a week later, so I inspected the pedal. Ah-Ha!!! there was a little play in the pedal spindle compared to the other one. I replaced the pedal. The reeking stopped, and then came back a week later. Maybe the bottom bracket bearings were worn. I changed the suspected one. The creaking stopped, and then came back a week later. About that time my bike was due for its 1000 mile drivetrain cleaning. The creaking went away, and then came back a week later. I noticed my crank spindle dust cap kept backing out. When I tightened the dust cap, the creaking went away. But why did the dust cap keep backing out? I used plenty of torque on the cap, I cleaned the threads of oil and grease, so the only thing left was the crank arm. I re-installed the crank arm and used a torque wrench just to be sure. So far, so good. No creaking, and the dust cap has not backed out; however, it has been 6 days since I "fixed" it.
New Thread
General Discussion Triathlon Talk » Beginner bike mechanic 101: raw materials + simple necessities Rss Feed  
 
 
of 3