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2009-08-26 12:56 PM
in reply to: #2372047

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Sensei
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Subject: RE: Understanding gears & cranksets
McFuzz - 2009-08-26 10:41 AM

You may be suffering as much from the 5 mm difference in crankarm length as the gearing (maybe not).  If you go with a compact square taper crank, you can use "Bullet" crankarms which are available in 165 mm lengths (I got them for my wife who is also short).  Otherwise, most of your options start at 170 mm.  Square taper is the "old school" bottom bracket that uses a square end to the spindle and a square hole in the crank.  Still common, but incompatible with ISIS designs that use small splines instead of a square. 



True,

I read that going 5mm longer on the crank lets you run about one gear higher, but like you said, changes things biomechanically.


2009-08-26 1:47 PM
in reply to: #2372089

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Subject: RE: Understanding gears & cranksets
Aikidoman - 2009-08-26 12:54 PMThe lowest ratio you have on the tri bike is 40.6.  You have three gears lower than that on your roadie (37.1, 33.9 and 31.2)

Is you can see, you can get one back if you switch to a 12-27 (37.6) for 80 bucks.
You get back about 1 1/2 if you switch to a compact crank for about $250 (38.4 and 35.4 from the earlier charts)

You can get back just about all three if you switch to a compact crank AND get a new cassette.

It's all about how much you need to get gearing wise and how much you want to spend.  The money is probably not an object if you just can't ride the bike.  However, I found most issues can probably by solved with a cheaper cassette and about 2 minutes worth of work to swap it out.

But you have a slightly bigger problem.

I have heard people going to a 12-34 rear and going with a MTB derailer for the worst of conditions, but I don't know how well that works.


I called my LBS and asked him to order me a compact crank.  His suggestion was to change out the cassette to a 12-27 OR see if it was possible to switch to the 12-34 like you suggested in an attempt to save some money.  I guess I'll go with that to start, knowing that I still have the option of going compact if I need the lower gears.  I'm assuming that with time I'll get used to it but I still have races to do in the meantime and it sounds like most favour the compact crank.

Thank you so much for your help and suggestions.  (And all the others who helped me out too!!)
2009-08-26 2:42 PM
in reply to: #2369945

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Subject: RE: Understanding gears & cranksets

You know enough (now) to be dangerous.  My advice is to take your bike into the shop and describe your situation to the mechanic.  Explain which hills you really struggle with and what you want to accomplish.  Be prepared to get on the bike and ride it on a trainer.  The mechanic can quickly spot whether you might benefit from shorter crankarms, look at the front/rear deraileur and almost immediately tell you which options are "easy" and which are "more difficult" and how much gain you'll get with each change.  That way, if you do go ahead with a compact crank, you can get one with the right size crankarms (the first time), which compact crankset you'll need, and you'll know if changing chainrings requires moving the front deraileur (and how easy it will be or what will be the symptoms if you don't). 

If you're not happy with the attitude/service from that mechanic, try a second shop.  The goal of the LBS is to make money from satisfied customers.  My experience has been that the LBS mechanics are more than willing to talk to the customer (me) and help guide me towards acceptable solutions (and this includes being sensitive to costs).  Good service costs more than mail-order parts and do-it-yourself labor, but establishing a good relationship pays off in the long run. 

2009-08-26 5:32 PM
in reply to: #2372089

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Subject: RE: Understanding gears & cranksets
I have heard people going to a 12-34 rear and going with a MTB derailer for the worst of conditions, but I don't know how well that works.


Supposedly well enough to compete in the Everest Challenge.
It would be trickier if the tri bike were Campy or SRAM, but Shimano MTB stuff will work perfectly fine with most road stuff.  Even better, the tri bike in question is 9 speed and 9 speed mountain stuff is relatively cheap and easy to find.  Getting a 10 cog MTB cassette would be much more difficult and expensive.
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