Need advice for a rubbing wheel

You need to get the wheel fixed - it might just need to be trued.  Most triathlons have a person doing minimal bike repair around transition.  Someone a few turns with a spoke wrench might make a big difference.

Loosening the rear brake is a bad idea that could lead to injury to you and others, especially during a race.

It's an old, stock wheel on a very old, heavy, used road bike. It would probably cost less to just buy a new one. My worry is that I won't put the tire and tube on right, won't be able to go out and test it out long enough to make sure, and will blow a tire in the race. Is this a valid concern? Or would it blow immediately if the tube was pinched? (I freak out about this because it happened twice on my old bike... may have just been an issue on that bike though.)

I know this is hard for most to believe, but $40 would be a real stretch right now -- seriously. Everything is budgeted to the last penny for my tri and I didn't factor in last-minute mechanical emergencies (which is the lesson learned). So I guess the real choices are between spinning in a low gear and fighting through the rub.

1. call and ask how much it is to true a wheel (unless it's TOTALLY taco'd, chances are they can at least get it "good enough")

2. After finding out how much it is either do that, or as a last resort just open your brake so it doesn't rub. You are fine with one brake, just remember that that's what you're doing.

3.

Thanks for the advice guys... I found a shop that quoted me $10-30, and I'm just going to dip into a supposed-to-be untouchable savings account to do it. I had seen prices of $40-60 before. Anything under $30 will be easy to put back.

My worry with having only one brake other than the obvious safety issues is that I would be ultra timid going down hills and would thus negate opening the brake to eliminate the wheel rub. I tried yanking it to one side, which works until I use the brake, and then it rubs again.

I do need to learn to change my own tires. I'm a mechanically inclined person, but have been so lazy about learning to fix my bike. It intimidates me more than my car engine does for whatever reason.

triforce....check your PMs.

Hey I am totaly new to this site and have been looking around.  I registered just to answer this question.  If your wheel is rubbing you may be able to true it "by eye" with the brake as your guide, this is the only way I have ever done them.  It will get you by in a pinch and if you don't really want to invest any money in that wheel then it is perfect.  I would not recommend this for a high end wheel, leave that to the pros.  Spin the wheel slowly while looking at the rim where it goes by the rear brake.  Is it only hitting one side?  Is it hitting both sides?  Does the rim go up and down like it is out of round?  Hopefully it is only hitting one brake pad.  If it is hitting both sides then it got tweaked pretty good.  If it is also going up and down "out of round" the rim is most likely bent.  First start by spinning that wheel and note the locations where the rim is touching the pad.  This is easily done with a fine marker or pencil on the rim.  Hold the marker in a location on your bike frame so that it does not move in and out with the wheel but as you spin your wheel slowly move the marker in toward the rim until it touches.  It should consistently touch in the same spot.  Now stop and take a look.  This should be the same spot or spots that the brake pad is touching.  This is the first place to make an adjustment on your spokes.  Always remember the phrase "righty tighty, lefty loosey".  Turning the spoke nipple right or clockwise viewed from the nipple end of the spoke will tighten it thus pulling the rim to that side left or counterclockwise will loosen.  Notice that your spokes alternate from side to side from the rim to the hub of the wheel (for a standard laced wheel).  Ok back to the mark on the rim.  This is where your brake should be rubbing.  Now squeeze the spokes or wiggle them to see if any are overly loose or overly tight.  You may also have a broken spoke which would require you removing the tire and tube from the wheel.  If you do not have a broken or overly loose or tight spoke then you can tighten the spoke or spokes oppisite the mark.  Or stated different the spokes which go to the other or far side of the hub.  I have found that on older wheels they tend to be loose as opposed to too tight.  Just mark any spokes that you mess with (adjust) with tape.  Do one spoke at a time until you get the hang of it.  Do very slight adjustments 1/4 turn with a wrench and then give the wheel a spin.  Did the rubbing stop in that position or did it get worse.  If it is worse go back and turn the spoke the other way (remember righty tighty lefty loosey).  You should be able to get it close enough to not rub if the rim is not bent.  Don't overdue the tightening or you will break a spoke and things will only get worse.  If you do not have a spoke wrench you can use a small adjustable wrench in a pinch.  I would recommend at the least going to the LBS and get a spoke wrench if you don't have one.  There is a lot more to truing a wheel correctly but this is basic.  Also since this is your rear wheel you will notice that the spokes going to the side of the cassette (freewheel) will be tighter and at a steeper angle than the other side.  This is to accomodate the cassette.  Bottom line use your head if you are over tightening or over loosening spokes the wheel will begin to loose stability.  If you havea broken spoke replace it or an adjstment to true the wheel will only stress and brake more spokes.  Even if you don't try it yourself you may want to get the general idea so that if you are out on a ride and brake a spoke or bend a rim you can at least true it "by eye" and get her back to the stable for some repairs.  Just throw the spoke wrench in your seat bag or tire kit and you have a little extra insurance on the next long ride.  Hope this helps and good luck to you.  Here is a link that describes the basics too. http://eastprovidencecycle.com/how-to/wheel-truing-basics-pg270.htm

Do you have any friends that ride?  Maybe you can borrow a wheel -- especially if it's the front one that is the problem.  Swapping out the rear wheel is more of a problem because it involves changing the cassette (and compatibility issues).

Oops, now I see that it is the rear wheel that is the problem. 

The bike is in the shop and will be ready for me tomorrow as I head for Columbus. They said it's a really good thing I brought it because it was rubbing enough that it would cause a lot of fatigue. Maybe this is why my rides have been so awful lately. But they said because it's an older wheel, they can get it pretty good but not perfect.

Giff -- Sorry I missed your reply, but I was already on my way to the LBS. I may go ahead and try this on some older wheels/bikes we have flying around (they're all warped too) for practice. Thank you so much for spelling it all out like that. I always thought trueing was something ridiculously complicated.