Tri bike question
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Moderators: k9car363, alicefoeller | Reply |
2015-01-28 7:03 PM |
409 Durham, North Carolina | Subject: Tri bike question I have the permission from my wife to pull the trigger and get a tri bike. I currently have a road bike that's a little to big for me with aero bars, but my fitters did the best they can to make it work. That being said, is it worth it to pay more for the higher end bikes with integrated handlebars? I'm just beginning this process so any input you guys have will really help. I'm going to get a fit before I purchase so I make sure I get the right one, but I'm assuming I'll have options. Also if I have multiple local stores that do retul fits can I use that as leverage to get a better deal or have other offers thrown in? Thanks everyone. |
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2015-01-28 7:45 PM in reply to: Lupy |
72 | Subject: RE: Tri bike question First thing is pick the bike shop that you feel the most comfortable with and start looking at their options. At each price point a lot of the bikes will have similar setups. Saving a little bit now but dealing with a crappy bike shop in the long run is a lot more painful. Once you have the bike shop you like picked out (and it can be a few that you are narrowed down to) start going through the bikes and see what ones your body likes the most. I did test rides on many different brands before settling on the one I like the most. Once you get it narrowed down to that point you can start looking at features and options. Things like integrated handlebars and such are usually options on different models of the same frameset. |
2015-01-28 7:55 PM in reply to: 0 |
Subject: RE: Tri bike question Originally posted by Lupy I have the permission from my wife to pull the trigger and get a tri bike. I currently have a road bike that's a little to big for me with aero bars, but my fitters did the best they can to make it work. That being said, is it worth it to pay more for the higher end bikes with integrated handlebars? I'm just beginning this process so any input you guys have will really help. I'm going to get a fit before I purchase so I make sure I get the right one, but I'm assuming I'll have options. Also if I have multiple local stores that do retul fits can I use that as leverage to get a better deal or have other offers thrown in? Getting the fit first is an excellent way to do it. After you get the fit, try out each of the ones that are "your size" and see which one feels best. Yeah, it's nice to have a high speed carbon bike but I'd bet the top in each category at Kona can take a moderate aluminium bike and kick all of our butts with it with training wheels. Personally, I got a low end carbon bike to avoid the whole equipment envy upgrade that would happen had I gotten a low end aluminium one. Cheaper that way. Edited by DanielG 2015-01-28 7:55 PM |
2015-01-29 7:53 AM in reply to: Lupy |
467 , Wisconsin | Subject: RE: Tri bike question I'd add that you probably want to set some sort of a budget, You'll also want to figure that whatever you pay for the bike itself, you're likely to spend quite a bit more "fitting it out". Things like pedals, maybe new shoes/cleats, hydration, cycle computer, storage, emergency kit etc. will all add up. In my experience, taking the time to do some research and really check out different options insures being happy with the choice. In the past I've jumped on a purchase too quickly and then been wanting something different not long after. That can get real expensive. Enjoy the process! |
2015-01-29 8:49 AM in reply to: 0 |
Veteran 263 | Subject: RE: Tri bike question Definitely fit/try before buy. I went for "feel" 100%, and got a (relatively) cheap aluminum bike that I love. No back pain, knee pain, anything. It just felt like it was built for my body type. I recommend going for that hand-in-glove fit. You will know when you have the right one. (For those curious, it is a Cervelo P2) I love it so much. Here is a picture of her: http://www.bikesportmichigan.com/bikes/store08bikes/bsp/Cervelo_P2S... Edited by neuronet 2015-01-29 8:52 AM |
2015-01-29 9:15 AM in reply to: Lupy |
Pro 6582 Melbourne FL | Subject: RE: Tri bike question Originally posted by Lupy I have the permission from my wife to pull the trigger and get a tri bike. Ah I remember that day well! When I bought my bike at the end of '06 carbon frames were just becoming the rage. I bought an Aluminum frame with carbon seat stays, at a good discount, but had high end components (DA). Was plenty of bike for me. A year ago I sold it to a newbie and built up a bike with a new generation Felt B12 frame. Your going about it right, get the fitting and go from there. BTW, when I bought that 1st bike I also worked out a deal to buy all the accessories (shoes, pedals, CPU) at 15% off. A lot of the bikes today are very adjustable in the cockpit. Felt for instance has their own bar that has a lot of adjustability built in.
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2015-01-29 11:38 AM in reply to: Lupy |
Veteran 740 The Woodlands, TX | Subject: RE: Tri bike question The "latest and greatest" superbikes with integrated cockpits can easily double the cost of the bike. Performance gains are real.....but they're probably measured in seconds or maybe a few minutes depending on the race distance, rider, and bike you're comparing it against. Whether it's worth it to you is really a value judgement that only you can make. One other thing to consider if you're going the superbike route is maintenance. Some of the latest and greatest can be tougher to work on and maintain than "ordinary" tri bikes. I tend to think you get the best bang for your buck with a mid-range bike that you're comfortable on........most of the speed gains but a much smaller price tag. |
2015-01-29 3:22 PM in reply to: g_shotts |
409 Durham, North Carolina | Subject: RE: Tri bike question Originally posted by g_shotts The "latest and greatest" superbikes with integrated cockpits can easily double the cost of the bike. Performance gains are real.....but they're probably measured in seconds or maybe a few minutes depending on the race distance, rider, and bike you're comparing it against. Whether it's worth it to you is really a value judgement that only you can make. One other thing to consider if you're going the superbike route is maintenance. Some of the latest and greatest can be tougher to work on and maintain than "ordinary" tri bikes. I tend to think you get the best bang for your buck with a mid-range bike that you're comfortable on........most of the speed gains but a much smaller price tag. Thanks. I don't want to buy a bike now that I want to upgrade again later. Has anyone been able to find any reliable numbers on the difference between integrated and standard bars? For everyone out there with electronic shifting. Do you find that having the ability to shift by the breaks is something you use often or would be worth the extra expense? I don't plan on doing any road races, but I really enjoy group rides. |
2015-01-29 4:11 PM in reply to: Lupy |
Elite 7783 PEI, Canada | Subject: RE: Tri bike question Originally posted by LupyThanks. I don't want to buy a bike now that I want to upgrade again later. Just so you know, this is inevitable.... no matter what you buy. Good luck with your new bike! |
2015-01-29 6:53 PM in reply to: #5088237 |
2015-01-29 7:37 PM in reply to: Lupy |
Subject: RE: Tri bike question Originally posted by Lupy I have the permission from my wife to pull the trigger and get a tri bike. If this is required for a bike purchase, you probably want to stay away from the high end super bikes.
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2015-01-29 9:42 PM in reply to: Lupy |
24 Richland, Washington | Subject: RE: Tri bike question Get a bike that fits first. After that get the best group you can afford. Save some money for accessories. Once you get above the mid level you have a point of diminishing returns... you can spend thousands to save seconds. for me I can much more bang for my buck at the grocery store... If I dropped 20 pounds I could save much more time that if I bought a 20k tri bike. Spend the money where you can get the most back for the buck!
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2015-01-30 7:09 AM in reply to: Gregwarro |
Extreme Veteran 1986 Cypress, TX | Subject: RE: Tri bike question Originally posted by Gregwarro for me I can much more bang for my buck at the grocery store... If I dropped 20 pounds I could save much more time that if I bought a 20k tri bike. Spend the money where you can get the most back for the buck!
They're not mutually exclusive. You can lose weight and have a nice bike. |
2015-01-30 7:14 AM in reply to: GMAN 19030 |
Master 10208 Northern IL | Subject: RE: Tri bike question Originally posted by GMAN 19030 Originally posted by Gregwarro for me I can much more bang for my buck at the grocery store... If I dropped 20 pounds I could save much more time that if I bought a 20k tri bike. Spend the money where you can get the most back for the buck!
They're not mutually exclusive. You can lose weight and have a nice bike. Also, somehow it doesn't seem likely that one will be dropping 20 lbs if that 20k is put into groceries instead. |
2015-01-30 7:38 AM in reply to: Lupy |
Pro 6582 Melbourne FL | Subject: RE: Tri bike question Originally posted by Lupy Originally posted by g_shotts The "latest and greatest" superbikes with integrated cockpits can easily double the cost of the bike. Performance gains are real.....but they're probably measured in seconds or maybe a few minutes depending on the race distance, rider, and bike you're comparing it against. Whether it's worth it to you is really a value judgement that only you can make. One other thing to consider if you're going the superbike route is maintenance. Some of the latest and greatest can be tougher to work on and maintain than "ordinary" tri bikes. I tend to think you get the best bang for your buck with a mid-range bike that you're comfortable on........most of the speed gains but a much smaller price tag. Thanks. I don't want to buy a bike now that I want to upgrade again later. Has anyone been able to find any reliable numbers on the difference between integrated and standard bars? For everyone out there with electronic shifting. Do you find that having the ability to shift by the breaks is something you use often or would be worth the extra expense? I don't plan on doing any road races, but I really enjoy group rides. You didn't provide any $ amount for what your limit is going to be. The range can be quite a spread for the same frame, for instance the Felt B series runs from $1999 to $3699, Ultegra, DA, Ultegra Di2. I'm running full Ultegra on my B12, I really don't need to upgrade it. But I am thinking about upgrading to Di2 if I can find a good deal on used parts. But if I do I will be looking at setting it up with the bar-end and brake-end shifters together so that when am on the group rides, or climbing, etc., I can shift when sitting up. Most of the bike you see from the manufacturers don't have both Di2 shifting capabilities, they are usually just the bar-end shifters. |
2015-01-30 8:40 AM in reply to: Donto |
409 Durham, North Carolina | Subject: RE: Tri bike question Originally posted by Donto Originally posted by Lupy Originally posted by g_shotts The "latest and greatest" superbikes with integrated cockpits can easily double the cost of the bike. Performance gains are real.....but they're probably measured in seconds or maybe a few minutes depending on the race distance, rider, and bike you're comparing it against. Whether it's worth it to you is really a value judgement that only you can make. One other thing to consider if you're going the superbike route is maintenance. Some of the latest and greatest can be tougher to work on and maintain than "ordinary" tri bikes. I tend to think you get the best bang for your buck with a mid-range bike that you're comfortable on........most of the speed gains but a much smaller price tag. Thanks. I don't want to buy a bike now that I want to upgrade again later. Has anyone been able to find any reliable numbers on the difference between integrated and standard bars? For everyone out there with electronic shifting. Do you find that having the ability to shift by the breaks is something you use often or would be worth the extra expense? I don't plan on doing any road races, but I really enjoy group rides. You didn't provide any $ amount for what your limit is going to be. The range can be quite a spread for the same frame, for instance the Felt B series runs from $1999 to $3699, Ultegra, DA, Ultegra Di2. I'm running full Ultegra on my B12, I really don't need to upgrade it. But I am thinking about upgrading to Di2 if I can find a good deal on used parts. But if I do I will be looking at setting it up with the bar-end and brake-end shifters together so that when am on the group rides, or climbing, etc., I can shift when sitting up. Most of the bike you see from the manufacturers don't have both Di2 shifting capabilities, they are usually just the bar-end shifters. I would want both if I was to pay for the electronic shifting, and figured it came that way. Thanks for letting me know that. I wouldn't be comfortable paying more than 5k for it, but my wife is telling me to get what I want so I stop bothering her :D (persistence really paid off here). I already have a nice enough set of race wheels for now so I don't need money to go there. Also why pay more for a better groupset? My roadie has 105's and it works great. Ultegra isn't that much more so I could see upgrading to that, but then the price jumps rather quickly. The only reason I could see for upgrading to electronic is being able to shift from both spots. Thats a great point about if I used the extra money spent on upgrades for something else would it be more beneficial. Thanks for all of the help |
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