bike build questions

The brake set I removed from the Javelin (diacompe) does not fit onto the new frame (Old Cannondale multisport 2000).
The front brake went on ok, but the rear brake has an issue. The allen key 'nut' that is supposed to fit into the hole on the horizontal part bridging the seat stays is too small. Do these allen or hex-head 'nuts' come in more than one outer diameter?? It obviously fit into the hole on the Javelin frame as it held the brake on just fine, but seems to be one size too large for the Cannondale…


- There's a small variation in size. Any LBS should be able to help you with this. There's no such thing as different sizes though, so trial and error.

2nd Q - When routing the brake cable thru the brake lever, then outside of the base bar into a small hole in the Vision base bar, should I be using a very short section of cable housing? The cable goes out the back of the lever, then into a small hole in the base bar, then inside the base bar until it comes out the back of the base bar, at which point it will need the housing to route it down to the brakes.
Is there somewhere a very clear picture of the cable routing BEFORE the bar tape is added?

- If I remember right, you use a full length housing through the bars. It's not easily to fish through, but if you get an old brake cable and a magnet, you can guide that through the bar (feed it from the front and back). Then use that as a guide tool for your cable housing.

3rd question re crankset removal. I have not seen a crankset like this before... On the driveside, outside of the spindle at center, is a 'quarter' -sized 'cover'?? with two very small holes opposite one another. I hope the description makes sense. Does this need to be removed? If so, how? What tool?

- You would need to specify what crank you have to answer that question… The way you describe it though, no you wouldn't remove that. The crank would be removed from the non-drive side (you should have a hex key, probably 8 or 10mm on that side). You would need to hold the crank by inserting the hex key in the drive side (usually 6 or 8 mm).

4th Q the inline barrel adjusters were SO rusted that they both broke when I tried to remove them... Are these necessary, or just nice to have?

- Inline adjusters are good to have, but by no means necessary. It just makes it easier to take up any cable stretch. Quite frankly, I wouldn't use them for your derailleurs, but if yo have integrated brakes, an inline quick release make wheel removal so much easier and faster (unless you have Campy, where you have a built in release in the brake levers).

Thanks a million for any help, and I am sure to have more questions .... like how the hell does one keep brake cable from fraying ??

- Where does the cable fray? In the housing or at the end? The ends should be covered either with a crimp on cable end or what I prefer, heat shrink tubing. If it frays anywhere else, then you have a contact point due to a sharp bend… you need to route the cables so that doesn't happen.

Jan
Thanks very much for the answers !!

Yep, I discovered via youtube - shout out to RJ the bike guy - that a single length of housing is used from the lever through the base bar... duh me !!

thanks again !