login
FD Removal
-
No new posts
 2015-10-26 11:46 AM |
Master  6834      Englewood, Florida |  Subject: FD RemovalI ride on the Gulf Coast of Florida where flat is the name of the game. I have been tossing around the idea of removing my front derailleur. Does anyone have any ideas/anecdotes/experience with that sort of thing? I'm fairly sure it isn't going to save me any time, but I have been noodling the idea around and figured I would ask. |
| 2015-10-26 11:51 AM in reply to: cdban66 |
Pro 6582 Melbourne FL Gold member | Subject: RE: FD Removal There's a thread or two on this over on the other site, take a look here to start with. |
| 2015-10-26 9:46 PM in reply to: cdban66 |
Coach 9167 Stairway to Seven | Subject: RE: FD Removal What kind of bike do you have and what's on it now? are you going to change out the front chainrings, remove one, use a spacer kit, etc? Why not just not shift? |
| 2015-10-27 7:36 AM in reply to: AdventureBear |
Master 6834 Englewood, Florida | Subject: RE: FD Removal Originally posted by AdventureBear What kind of bike do you have and what's on it now? are you going to change out the front chainrings, remove one, use a spacer kit, etc? Why not just not shift? The first go round would be on my road bike which is a Fuji Team SL, circa 2004. The FD is a bolt on, so removal is not a challenge at all. Currently, when I am on the large chainring, there are a few gears that I primarily use and I need to micro adjust between two FD settings to avoid chain rub (first world problems, I know If I find this to be a feasible setup I may go the same route on my Jamis Xenith T tri bike, but that is doubtful.
|
). So the first step will be removal of the FD. After that comes a few test rides. If all is good, then a trip to the LBS to clean up the crankset/brifters. I'm not positive yet, but that may involve a whole new crankset.| 2015-10-27 7:47 AM in reply to: cdban66 |
Coach 9167 Stairway to Seven | Subject: RE: FD Removal The first step I'd suggest if you havn't already is checking out sheldon brown's gear ratio page: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/ The reason is that whatever your current large cog is, you may be just fine using it alone with your rear cassette, but you may also want to get a different front /rear combo that works best for you. Generally at least with MTB cranks you can buy a spacer kit to take up the space where the missing front chainrinig was without having to buy a different crank set. If you do buy a new crankset you'll just have to make sure the BB width fits your bike, but any bike shop should be able to help with that. Good luck and have fun |
| 2015-10-27 1:16 PM in reply to: AdventureBear |
Veteran 740 The Woodlands, TX | Subject: RE: FD Removal Doesn't seem like this would be a good idea for most people. Even if you don't typically need your small chain-ring, you could find yourself in situations in the future where it could come in handy.......What about if you ever ride in a social setting with some very slow riders? What about if you get a whopper of a cramp on a ride and can't put out much power? What if you get caught in an unexpected storm and end up fighting stiff head winds to get home? For me, the tiny aero benefit and weight savings wouldn't justify the loss of functionality! |
| 2015-10-27 5:35 PM in reply to: g_shotts |
Pro 6582 Melbourne FL Gold member | Subject: RE: FD Removal Originally posted by g_shotts Doesn't seem like this would be a good idea for most people. Even if you don't typically need your small chain-ring, you could find yourself in situations in the future where it could come in handy.......What about if you ever ride in a social setting with some very slow riders? What about if you get a whopper of a cramp on a ride and can't put out much power? What if you get caught in an unexpected storm and end up fighting stiff head winds to get home? For me, the tiny aero benefit and weight savings wouldn't justify the loss of functionality! Nothing a 46t chain ring and a 11-28 can't take care off. Top end is just above a 50/12 and bottom end is just below a 38/23. I live on the FL coast too and the next bike I plan on a 1x 11spd RB for commuting and group riding. |
| 2015-10-28 12:20 PM in reply to: Donto |
Master 6834 Englewood, Florida | Subject: RE: FD Removal Originally posted by Donto Originally posted by g_shotts Doesn't seem like this would be a good idea for most people. Even if you don't typically need your small chain-ring, you could find yourself in situations in the future where it could come in handy.......What about if you ever ride in a social setting with some very slow riders? What about if you get a whopper of a cramp on a ride and can't put out much power? What if you get caught in an unexpected storm and end up fighting stiff head winds to get home? For me, the tiny aero benefit and weight savings wouldn't justify the loss of functionality! Nothing a 46t chain ring and a 11-28 can't take care off. Top end is just above a 50/12 and bottom end is just below a 38/23. I live on the FL coast too and the next bike I plan on a 1x 11spd RB for commuting and group riding.That kind of describes the bike I am looking at making the change on. I'm not looking for aero or weight benefit, just might try something a bit different. I enjoy my fixed gear for the simplicity of it. And the training benefit. |
| 2015-11-01 9:03 AM in reply to: cdban66 |
Pro 5892 , New Hampshire | Subject: RE: FD Removal Not a good idea… even if you're not going to use the small chainring, the FD will make sure that the chain stays on even if you hit a bump in the road. David Miller famously removed the FD in a TdF TT and dropped the chain right before the finish line. |
|
|
|
| |||
| |||
| |||
| |||
|
View profile
Add to friends
Go to training log
Go to race log
Send a message
View album
CONNECT WITH FACEBOOK