I am THIS CLOSE to buying a bike HELP ME

1. A tri bike is recommended if you plan to move on to HIM and IM distances. 

2. Full carbon is smoother and does absorb more vibrations from the road.  However a good aluminum tri bike, such as the P2SL will have a carbon fork and carbon seat post.

3. Another one you forgot to mention is the P2SL which comes in 3 models this year, all under 3K (in Canadian dollars):

• P2SL Ultegra.....$2,950
• P2SL Bike..........$2,200
• P2SL Pro Bike....$2,650

Also, if you are planning to do a lot of groups rides as well as triathlons, the Cervélo Soloist is probably the best bike for you.  It is great as both, a road bike and a tri bike.

 4. The most important thing to consider when buying a bike is the frame. 

Unless you also want to do some bike racing or group rides with those that frown on tri-bikes, then a full tri set-up sounds right for you--though this could be done on TT geometry or road geometry.

No.  Frame material is WAY down the list of things that impact your comfort on the bike.  Fit sits on top.

I have a Soloist and like it.  Have thought about looking at full TT frames, but keep deciding that the Soloist is good enough for me.  May move to a full tri set-up on the front-end next season.

Frame is more important in that it is more expensive to replace and it is what dictates fit.  But the fact that the K-Factor is carbon does not in and of itself make it better than the Dual.

MYTH.

MYTH x2.  My tri-bike is more comfortable than my admittedly older carbon road bike.  I love resting on my elbows and just riding.

Also, have you considered the Felt S22?  From www.bikesportmichigan.com

2007 Felt S22
One writer, Dan Empfield of Slowtwitch.com, said Felt made several years worth of geometry improvements in one year on the new S22. The 2007 Felt S22 features Felt’s new variable geometry seatpost, a much wider fit band with steeper seat angles, new Profile T2+ modular, “S” bend aerobars that can be easily swapped for ski bend aerobars depending on your preference at no charge and a more practical, powerful, higher head tube. This is combined with the proven carbon fiber wishbone seat stay and multi-shaped, custom butted aluminum construction frame that has a new bladed, aerofoil shaped seat tube with a deep, hydro-formed wheel cut out. Component spec on the S22 is a Shimano mix with Dura-Ace rear derailleur and shifters and an FSA crank. The Alex ALX 295R Aero wheelset has bladed spokes and can double as a good race day wheel before you swipe the card again for deep section, carbon aero race wheels. The S22 is around $1900 for an aero carbon fiber and aluminum frame with a Dura-Ace mix parts kit and aero wheels. The new Geometry from Felt is the cornerstone of the S22 and the great parts spec is the icing on the cake.

You can get K Factor in Ultegra...that is what I ride...love the bike but fit comes first. It is perfect for those of us regular folks so we ride it like it was designed...not super low front end with lots of stackers.

Be patient...go, ask a lot of questions & test ride as many as you can. 

While you're reading BSM reviews, look at this one on the Dual:  http://www.bikesportmichigan.com/reviews/06CerveloDual.shtml

If you are going to focus on Tris then get a tri bike. The P2SL is a nice bike. I have a QR Tequilo which has a carbon seat stay and a nice componet package which I got for under 2K. (added used race wheels for another $600).

When I was in the same situation as you, I asked myself if I ever wanted to ride in roady groups or road race. And since I didn't there was no reason to buy a road bike.

Personally?  NONE.  The deciding factor is how and what kind of bike YOU see yourself riding.  The tri v. road bike has been presented.  You need to decide what style of riding you want to do. 

If you are worried about the area north of Atl, the ask people in the GA forum what bike(s) they own.  Atlanta's terrain didn't factor into my buying decision at all. 

I can tell you that when I typically ride in town, I am around 16 mph, at Stone Mountain I am 19 mph, on the SCT 18mph and in the Gaps 14 mph.   Tell me how this equates to the fact that I went 20+ mph in my last HIM??? 

Pick the bike that is best for you

But wh

Love your choice...K Factor works well for us regular folks. Did you go with 105's or Ultegra?

I hope you have many happy & fast miles together

Someone mentioned being much more comfortable on their road bike compared to their tri bike. I have both; both are full carbon frames. Hands down my tri bike is more comfortable. I have the same fit guy set them both up and at a time they were both fit exactly the same so how can one feel so much better than the other? I don't know...love my K Factor.

I have both and have been fitted to both and I agree that the roadie is more comfortable over 5-6 hours, HOWEVER the intent of a tri bike is to 1) acheive the best aerodynamic position in order to maximize your efficiency over 40k, 112 mi, whatever and 2) save your legs for the run due to the geometry of the tri bike. Do 6 hrs on the roadie and then go for a run and see how your legs feel. The secret to being comfortable on a tribike is a good fit and time in the saddle so your body gets used to that position for hours at a time.

Congrats on the bike James~!

I think the first decision has to be road vs tri bike. If you ever want to do group rides, such as with a local cycling club, you really have to ride a road bike. If you will train mostly solo and don't plan to do bike races, then the tri bike is it. If you're not sure, I'd say go for the soloist - I believe the frame is virtually identical to the dual. So, you can convert it to a tri bike if you want. Not something you can do on a regular basis, but once or twice a year.

Also, I think a road bike with clipon aerobars is a far cry from a true tri bike. In my opinion that approach isn't worthwhile. 

Good luck,
tom