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2008-01-16 8:24 AM

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Subject: Top three things...
I'm getting ready to buy a new bike (and when I say getting ready, I really mean, planning on going to a LBS to check out what they got). I have never bought a bike before. The bike I currently own, my trusty Trek hybrid, was a Christmas gift a few years ago.

For background--I'm doing a HIM this year in May, I plan to do shorter tri distances like Oly's and Sprints. I can't afford to spend a lot and will be looking at 2007 models to save cash. Probably looking at a road bike, not a tri bike.

So, limit it to three items if you can--what are the things I should be looking at going into this process (most important features, questions to ask, etc.)? Not that I think I'll be taken advantage of (I don't think the LBS is like a car dealership) but because I'm not super knowledgeable about what I need, I don't want to be taken for a ride. Figuratively speaking.

Thanks for the advice!


2008-01-16 8:26 AM
in reply to: #1159147

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Resident Curmudgeon
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Subject: RE: Top three things...
  1. Fit
  2. Fit
  3. Fit

Then, make sure it's a good fit.

After that,

  1. Set a budget. This, more likely than not, will dictate your choices and limit your search.
  2. Educate yourself on frame materials, component levels, and what each brand has to offer. 95% of this you can determine online.
  3. Shop until you drop. Visit as many local bike shops as feasible, expand your search as wide as you're willing to travel for purchase and service. How the dealer treats you when you're shopping will tell a lot about how they will treat you when you go in for service.

Finally, by all means post your specific questions here. There are a lot of knowledgeable folks here who are more than willing to show you how much they know.

 



Edited by the bear 2008-01-16 8:33 AM
2008-01-16 8:27 AM
in reply to: #1159147

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Pro
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Keller, Texas
Subject: RE: Top three things...

Fit is the end all be all important thing.  You could buy a $3000 bike, but if it does not fit well, you are wasting your money.

Cost if course is a factor, and for me, I have to like the way it looks (That might just be a girl thing though)

2008-01-16 8:29 AM
in reply to: #1159152

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Subject: RE: Top three things...
the bear - 2008-01-16 8:26 AM
  1. Fit
  2. Fit
  3. Fit

Then, make sure it's a good fit.

 

Agree - the most important - don't look at the name - go for the fit - if you are riding 56 miles in a HIM - you want comfort 

2008-01-16 8:31 AM
in reply to: #1159147

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Subject: RE: Top three things...
Fit is the really most important thing.

Beyond that a lot becomes preference, added gadgets, and higher end components.

I'd say go check out what they have and if you aren't sure from the way they helped you write some stuff down and bring it back here. You'll a lot of feedback if you toss up a few options for the bike.
2008-01-16 8:33 AM
in reply to: #1159147

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Champion
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Subject: RE: Top three things...

Well, you're hopefully going to end up not just purchasing a bike, but also establishing a relationship with the shop. Yes, you can buy stuff online but for repairs, adjustments, advice, and those 'gotta have it now' purchases you'll be going to the LBS. And they're not all the same, particularly when it comes to people who want to ride in triathlons.

So before you go shopping for a bike, I recommend that you go shopping for a bike shop.  Try this: Go to 3 different shops around the same time, and see how the staff is. Explain what you're looking for, ask questions, look around. See if you get pressured to buy what they have right there on the floor or if they find out what would be best for you first. Let them know that you're just starting out with this kind of cycling and see how they react.

Also, ask around about experiences that other people have had in local shops. Ask who are the best people to deal with.



2008-01-16 9:06 AM
in reply to: #1159166

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Champion
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Subject: RE: Top three things...
1. Fit
2. Fit
3. a Good LBS.

As everyone else said, fit is the most important.

But like Marmadaddy said, you should be establishing a relationship with the shop. If you find a bike that fits, but the shop people are less then respectful and courteous, find a different shop that sells the bike.

Marmadaddy's plan is a good way to find a shop. There should be no pressure to buy then and there. They should want you to try as many bikes as possible, and not just their bikes. I never want someone to come back because the bike doesn't fit. I'd rather lose a bike sale because they found a bike that fit better somewhere else, but gain a loyal customer because we gave them the best service with the only pressure being to buy a bike that fit them correctly. A loyal customer is worth far more then one bike sale.
2008-01-16 9:14 AM
in reply to: #1159147

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Subject: RE: Top three things...
sooo....what you're saying is.....fit is important?

:-P

Thanks for the advice. I've got my LBS in Montclair where we got my Trek bike, and they're super nice about helping me out. But I got a really great tip from a co-worker who goes to a shop here in NYC that he says is also phenomenal. So that's a good start.

As for fit, I've read that what feels good for five minutes can feel like heck after 56 miles. I've never been fitted for a bike before...do they just do that in the store? Do I get to do a test drive?
2008-01-16 9:15 AM
in reply to: #1159147

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Subject: RE: Top three things...
I think you got the message about fit. ;-) Beyond that, a couple of other things I'd suggest is to shoot for at least 105 components. I've ridden bikes with lower grade components and there's a definite difference between 105s and Soras in terms of clean/crisp operation. Also, consider the types of rides you want to do. Longer rides would generally mean more water to carry, so can the bike carry 1 bottle or 2 (you can add rear seat carriers, but if you don't have too why do it?). And finally, saddle comfort. Depending on your budget, the stock saddle may not be the most comfortable, so you may choose to upgrade your saddle to something that is more comfortable. I just got a new bike and it's amazing the difference a quality saddle makes.
2008-01-16 9:27 AM
in reply to: #1159147

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Coach
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Subject: RE: Top three things...
99% of the road and tri-bikes today will fit you unless you have some weird body built. That been said I would set up your search based on:
1.      budget
2.      bike geometry (road vs tri bike)
3.      bike material (aluminum vs carbon vs titanium)
4.      components

what I did when buying my 1st bike I define my budget, that narrow my search to certain bikes. Then I decided to buy a road bike 1st as I wasn't sure if I was going to be racing only tris and if I was going to enjoy it. Having a road bike at that point made more sense cuz it was more versatile for me. One I defined those two I began looking for different brands on those price ranges and get the specifications of each brand: frame geometry, sizing, material and components. I also did online research about components and learn quality vs price. Once I narrow my search to 3-5 bikes I went to different LBS to see the bikes, verify if they would fit, gather opinions and see if I like it. I also chat with LBS about price, extras (bike fitting, maybe new saddle or pedals included on price) service, etc.

2008-01-16 9:28 AM
in reply to: #1159259

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Subject: RE: Top three things...

swishyskirt - 2008-01-16 9:14 AM sooo....what you're saying is.....fit is important? :-P Thanks for the advice. I've got my LBS in Montclair where we got my Trek bike, and they're super nice about helping me out. But I got a really great tip from a co-worker who goes to a shop here in NYC that he says is also phenomenal. So that's a good start. As for fit, I've read that what feels good for five minutes can feel like heck after 56 miles. I've never been fitted for a bike before...do they just do that in the store? Do I get to do a test drive?

You will get a test ride, but probably only for a few minutes.  My LBS will rent you a bike and let you take it out for a longer ride.  Then they apply the price of the rent to the purchase price if you buy it.  You should be able to tell if a bike is a good fit or not with a 10 min test ride.  Long term comfort is more a matter of proper adjustment and replacing the saddle.  Both of my bikes were bought with a budget in mind that included spending money on a saddle after the bike purchase.  Both stock saddles were replaced before the first ride.  There are some women specific saddles out there you should take a look at if you're going to do a HIM.

 



2008-01-16 9:42 AM
in reply to: #1159147

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Master
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Subject: RE: Top three things...
1. Fit
2. Budget
3. Comfort

The first two are pretty self explanatory however this is a bike that you are going to be on for 56+ miles
2008-01-16 9:45 AM
in reply to: #1159291

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Subject: RE: Top three things...
amiine - 2008-01-16 10:27 AM

99% of the road and tri-bikes today will fit you unless you have some weird body built. That been said I would set up your search based on:
1.      budget
2.      bike geometry (road vs tri bike)
3.      bike material (aluminum vs carbon vs titanium)
4.      components
.



See? That's the part that scares me. Um, bike geometry? Carbon vs. Titanium? I don't have a clue about this type of stuff...what's good, what's not, etc.
2008-01-16 9:51 AM
in reply to: #1159344

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Subject: RE: Top three things...
swishyskirt - 2008-01-16 9:45 AM
amiine - 2008-01-16 10:27 AM 99% of the road and tri-bikes today will fit you unless you have some weird body built. That been said I would set up your search based on:
1.      budget
2.      bike geometry (road vs tri bike)
3.      bike material (aluminum vs carbon vs titanium)
4.      components
.

 

See? That's the part that scares me. Um, bike geometry? Carbon vs. Titanium? I don't have a clue about this type of stuff...what's good, what's not, etc.

Those are kinda sorta some red herrings that Jorge has thrown out there. Simplified:

  • If you're set on a road bike (as you indicated), then geometry is a non-factor. But here's a good article on tri versus road bikes.
  • Unless your budget is, say, >$1500, you don't have to worry about carbon; ~$2,500 for titanium.
  • For the most part, your budget will also determine your component level. Get the highest level you can afford.

As I said previously, do your research and educate yourself!



Edited by the bear 2008-01-16 9:56 AM
2008-01-16 9:58 AM
in reply to: #1159344

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Subject: RE: Top three things...
Don't worry about geometry, for your first bike, you won't notice a difference between one road bike and the next.

Also your budget will more then likely be the deciding factor in your frame choices. Did you already tell us the budget?

Titanium is really only if you don't have a budget. Anymore, steel is sort of a boutique frame material that aficionados are the most likely to go with.

You'll most likely be deciding between carbon and Aluminum or some mixture that is most likely going to be decided by budget.

There is something to be said for getting the highest level components you can afford, but the other side of that is if you get a $995 dura ace equipped bike, you are getting top of the line components on a boat anchor. It is important to find a balance. IMHO I'd rather have a nicer frame that I can upgrade with nicer components (parts that will wear out and need replacing) then end up with a terrible frame with great components. The frame is the backbone of the bike.


Edited by graceful_dave 2008-01-16 10:02 AM
2008-01-16 10:27 AM
in reply to: #1159362

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Coach
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Subject: RE: Top three things...
the bear - 2008-01-16 9:51 AM
swishyskirt - 2008-01-16 9:45 AM
amiine - 2008-01-16 10:27 AM 99% of the road and tri-bikes today will fit you unless you have some weird body built. That been said I would set up your search based on:
1.      budget
2.      bike geometry (road vs tri bike)
3.      bike material (aluminum vs carbon vs titanium)
4.      components
.

 

See? That's the part that scares me. Um, bike geometry? Carbon vs. Titanium? I don't have a clue about this type of stuff...what's good, what's not, etc.

Those are kinda sorta some red herrings that Jorge has thrown out there. Simplified:

  • If you're set on a road bike (as you indicated), then geometry is a non-factor. But here's a good article on tri versus road bikes.
  • Unless your budget is, say, >$1500, you don't have to worry about carbon; ~$2,500 for titanium.
  • For the most part, your budget will also determine your component level. Get the highest level you can afford.

As I said previously, do your research and educate yourself!

whatever you say bear...

OP - it might sound intimidating but really it is very simple; do some research and you'll learn a lot about bikes, geometry, components, etc.

check out bike websites such as trek, giant, felt, cannondale, cervelo, etc.



2008-01-16 10:41 AM
in reply to: #1159147

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Elite
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Muskego, WI
Subject: RE: Top three things...

Just a quick clarification for you...everyone mentions "components."  What they are mainly referring to is the shifting system on the bike.  "Most" bikes will come with SHIMANO brand shifting systems.  Shimano order of quality (light weight, smooth operation, etc.) is

Sora (lower end)

Tiagra

105

Ultegra

Dura Ace (best)

Look at the rear derailer system and it's labeled right on there what it is.  If it works with your budget and fit requirements, I'd attempt to get a bike with a minimun of 105 components.

2008-01-16 10:49 AM
in reply to: #1159147

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Champion
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Urbandale, IA
Subject: RE: Top three things...

To start - I will admit that I am somewhat of a spreadsheet geek when it comes to making large purchases.  I am preparing to buy a new bike and this is what I have done. 

1.  I created a spread sheet that has columns for Manufacturer, Model, Drivetrain (components), wheels, crankset, weight and price.  I looked up all kinds of bikes from several makers and copied the info into the table.

2.  Now - I can sort the table in any form that I want, such as by price and then component and then weight.  I can decide what is the most important to me and set the table up to give me my top 5 or whatever.

3.  Now - I go out to the LBS that has these bikes and I try them out, ride them and see how they fit.  Which one do I like better.  Which one seems more comfortable.  From that I can make a decision, stay within my budget, and put greater emphasis on what is most important to me while keeping it all straight in my head.

2008-01-16 11:13 AM
in reply to: #1159147

Master
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Subject: RE: Top three things...
You need to find a reputable bike shop that you trust. If you have any friends who are serious cyclists, ask them for advise on shops to visit, and possibly take you to the shop and introduce you.

All shops have a "fit guy/girl". Not all shops have a "fit guy/girl" who know what they're doing. In an ideal world you would be put on a fit bike and the technician would determine the proper geometries and dimensions for you. They would then figure out a bike/component mix that fits you and your budget.

Not all shops have fit-bikes. And there are shops without fit-bikes that can still do a great job of fitting someone to a bike. So I wouldn't rule out a shop if it doesn't have one, but it's nice if they do.

If you go through a detailed fitting process prior to buying the bike, expect to pay for it. This charge will typically be deducted from the price of the bike (if you buy a bike where the margin to the shop is low, they may only credit you part of the fit fee) to keep you from using their fit service to buy a bike on-line or down the street.

Not all shops will let you test ride a bike, but any good shop will give you a period of time to return the bike for a full refund if you don't like it. I think test rides do a good job of ruling out bikes that are definitely not going to work, but you may be comfortable on a bike for a 15-30 minute ride that you hate after 2-3 hours.

Good shops will be willing to swap out components on a bike to make it fit, or to accommodate your budget.

Bike shopping is fun, but I'm sure it can be intimidating for the novice. Finding someone to "hold your hand" through a couple of shop visits can overcome some of that intimidation.

There are bad bike shops, and unscrupulous people out there, but in general most bike shops want you to be happy and want you to come back to them for service, upgrades, gear, and your next bike.

Your naivete may be a negative, but at the risk of being sexist, you an attractive woman and bike shops are full of testosterone laden men who would love to help you.

scott

2008-01-16 11:42 AM
in reply to: #1159147

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Lincoln, Nebraska
Subject: RE: Top three things...
Here's what I did when I got my road bike:

Went to the LBS and rode everything in my size, reguardless of price and brand.

I found after about 10 bikes ridden one after the other, that a particular brand felt better.

I then set a budget and started looking for the best bike I could get in that brand in my budget.

I ended up with a leftover (by about 7 months) bike that was absolutly perfect for me. I saved about $800 off original price and the fit is perfect.

FIT is definatly key, and you won't believe the difference between the brands until you ride them back to back.


OH YEAH, and the deal with Aluminum vs Carbon vs Titanium......that is all personal preferance. Aluminum frame bikes will cost less, but weigh more....yadda, yadda, yadda. Ride them all and you will see the difference. I ended up with a half steel, half carbon fiber bike, only because it fell into my budget. If I had bought new, I would be riding aluminum.

Edited by fifthcircle 2008-01-16 11:50 AM
2008-01-16 12:02 PM
in reply to: #1159147

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Subject: RE: Top three things...
Hey Swishy,
I'm envious of anyone doing serious bike shopping. What is more fun than a new bike!

Most of the advice thus far has been great, but I want to add a few notes about your budget. If you don't already have them, you will have to (or want to) buy clipless pedals and cycling shoes. Depending on what level you want to go with, these and a new saddle will add at least $150 to the purchase price of your bike. When I bought my first road bike a few years back, I found a good deal on what I wanted and then dropped another $350 on saddle, shoes, pedals.

I'm doing my first HIM this spring as well. Good luck with your race and your bike shopping.


2008-01-16 12:19 PM
in reply to: #1159147

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Subject: RE: Top three things...
Hey, everyone--thanks for the advice thus far--this is sooo helpful and putting some of me fears to rest. My budget (since several of you mentioned it) is pretty f'ing pathetic, to be honest. I don't want to spend much over $1,000. (I know, I know! I don't want to spend much over $800, but I know it's gonna go up with all the add-ons and everything).

I know this bike is a bit of an investment, but I don't have a lot to spend. So I want to make a really good decision and get the best bike I possibly can for the money I have.

I like the idea of focusing on getting a good frame and upgrading with doodads and such when I have the cash. One of my cyclists friends is very adamant that I get clipless pedals.
2008-01-16 1:16 PM
in reply to: #1159494

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Champion
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Subject: RE: Top three things...
morey1 - 2008-01-16 10:41 AM

Just a quick clarification for you...everyone mentions "components."  What they are mainly referring to is the shifting system on the bike.  "Most" bikes will come with SHIMANO brand shifting systems.  Shimano order of quality (light weight, smooth operation, etc.) is

Sora (lower end)
Tiagra
105
Ultegra
Dura Ace (best)

Look at the rear derailer system and it's labeled right on there what it is.  If it works with your budget and fit requirements, I'd attempt to get a bike with a minimun of 105 components.

Look at the brake/shift levers, they'll show the "grade" component too, and are the more expensive part of the setup.  Rear deraileur's are $40-150 as you move up the line.  Integrated shifter/brake levers are $120-500.  You might be willing to upgrade the rear deraileur (Not always advisable/compatible) well before you upgrade shifters. 

After fit

remember that there are bags/bottles/cages/pedals/inflator/tools/etc. that'll add to the cost of the bike.  Most mid-line bikes don't come with pedals, so you could swap pedals from your hybrid, but more likely will buy another set for your new love. 

A good bike shop ought to let you take a fairly long test ride (possibly on a trainer in their store), so go dressed and prepared to ride 30+ minutes.  The shop should include some bike fit work for you (more comprehensive as you go up in price).  The fit might involve 30 minutes of riding too. 

2008-01-16 1:30 PM
in reply to: #1159147

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Subject: RE: Top three things...

i'd just look for the coolest color scheme.....       Wink

 

 

 

 





(cool bike.jpg)



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2008-01-16 2:02 PM
in reply to: #1159147

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Champion
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Atlanta, Ga
Subject: RE: Top three things...

Quite honestly, if you're  looking for under $1000, you may want to go with a road bike and put on aerobars.  That's going to be your most versatile investment.  You can take the Aero bars off for the winter and have them on for Tri season.

Keep in mind that the fit will be different for each set up (Tri vs. Road).

A way to get a great test ride is to ask the shop if they have a weekly shop ride.  If they do, ask if you can test the bike out on the ride.  I know at my old shop, they would let you ride the bike and it gives you a chance to really test it out.  Can't hurt to ask.

And in regards to clipless pedals... YES YES YES.

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