WWBTD? New Bike

I would probably agree with you. 

It depends on how long the race is.  That is the number 1 factor.  2 if you had the fitting on the bike and can take maybe 2 rides on the bike before the race.....i am guessing though that the race is longer distance and its taper week so....probably sticking with old bike might be a better move.

Edited by trix 2009-04-28 9:34 PM

This user's post has been ignored.

Yup .......^^^^^

How long is the race? If it was a sprint I know that I wouldn't be able to leave my new bike at home even if it's not the best thing to do.

Is this a MTB for the Xterra??    Screw it, use the new one!  Not the same as fitting on a tri bike

use your new MTB, it is not like you will be in aero on it for 112 miles ;0)

If i remember correctly you said the race is about an hour??  go for it with the new ride!!!

Good luck!!!

"A" race? probably not. Anything else--hell yeah.

Since I'm pretty sure you are talking about the Stumpy for an Xterra race, Go for it! It doesn't take that long to get their suspension dialed. If you can get one ride in before hand you should be good to go. Make sure the shop sets up the suspension for you, they'll get you a good base line. Then take a shock pump with you on your ride.

You got the Stumpy 29er Comp? If that's the case, the rear shock has a 3 position compression damper, Lock out, propedal and full open. Go with the propedal setting for your race. Unless there are long road or fire road climbs you shouldn't need to adjust on the fly, but just in case get used to flicking it to the lockout mode and back to propedal while on the fly. I run another Fox propedal shock on my all mountain bike and the only time it's not on the propedal mode is when I'm doing downhill runs at the ski area. In my limited riding experience out in your area it seems to be less frequent but larger hits so you would be okay with slightly more then nuetral rebound damping, figure out how many turns are on the red dial and then set it in the middle, that will get you to a neutral position. If the suspesnion starts to pack up (meaning doesn't return to it's natural state before the next hit) reduce the rebound damping. If it's kicking you're arse with the saddle after each hit, increase the damping. Your shop guys should also be able to give you an idea of where the rebound damping should be for your area.

You might need some tweaking, but this will get you through the race, and if you're on one of C-dale's older designs like the SuperV or Jekyll, A mediocre tuned current FSR is going to rock compared to a well tuned Single Pivot Cdale from back in the day.

I'm not as familiar with tuning the Reba 29er fork. I ran a white bros for my short foray into 29ers and everyone I know with a 29er has a rigid carbon fork.

Sweet ride BTW.

Ha!  that's exactly what I have!  An old C-dale SuperV (13 years old and still rocking!).  But I think this bike, even with a "stock" setup, will prly ride better...

Now I'm leaning towards it just becauseit new!  The race is not that important (but I still like to go fast!).  I could get out on it for a spin on Thursday, ride the course on Friday, and then race with it on Sat. Morn...

I just wonder if there is a learning curve for the slightly larger frame and 29" wheels...

Ride the new one, lol btw is this the bike that has to be disguised as not to be noticed in the house?  If so just get it nice and dirty quickly...

There may be a small learning curve, but I doubt it. You're going from and old bike with cross country angels to a new one with cross country angles. I didn't need much adjustment for the big wheels. What I didn't like was going from a modern hardtail built for the more burly side of mountain biking with a long fork and slack angles to an XC oriented bike.

Ride the new bike. Even if you are still getting used to it, I think you will be light years ahead of your SuperV. They were great in their day, I had two and a Jekyll, but the new stuff is just so much better.