Road vs. Tri Bike Selection

Also to add to the above question when is the best time of year to buy a bike? 

I have a Specialized Secteur Elite road bike. I was 350 lbs when I got the bike, now I'm down to 315 and dropping. Other then changing the seat, the bike fits me good and performs wonderful. If I ever move up the 1/2 IM or better I would get a Tri Bike but that's a few years away .

How serious are you going to be with Triathlons and at what distance?  I would suggest a road bike, unless you plan on putting in HIM or IM distance.  How hilly?  If hilly area, I would suggest that you put the money in a road bike.

I have a Trek 2.1 road bike but I added clip on aero bars. I essentially get the best of both worlds and it's held up quite well to my body from 324 lbs to 275 lbs currently and I've done every distance on it up to and including IM.  My feeling is that at our weight the few ounces we'll save going from aluminum to carbon isn't necessarily worth the significant price increase.

Edited by Fatboy32 2010-09-21 9:36 PM

All of the feedback is GREATLY appreciated!  I am currently working on doing my first sprint and hopefully once I'm able to get the first one under my belt, I'll become an addict like the rest of the folks on this forum.

Sounds like I need to keep an eye out for a good deal on a road bike.  Will certainly look at the Specialize and the Trek's. 

Any clydes out there riding Felt's or Giant's?

Again.. THANK YOU ALL for not only inspiring me but also providing such wonderful advice.

Albiedawg

Last Sept I went thorough the same question. Bottom line it came down to what my long term plans were and my budget. I went with a tri bike as I was planning to do HIM and IM distance races. So the tri bike made sense for me. A road bike is more flexible as far as group/club ride and will function well for any distance race. Carbon or AL really depends on price to me. If you are planning to go long most say carbon is more comfortable but I think in the end buy the best frame you can get in your price range and the components can be upgraded as they wear.

In the end I got a 2009 Felt B-16 on closeout for a great price (cheaper than some AL tri bikes). Did have an issue with the steering tube but Felt quickly replaced the bike with a 2010 B-12. Absolutely love this bike, for me its a great fit, comfortable for rides up to 4.5 hours so far, its fast and handles well. FWIT I'm 5'11" and weight 260#. Other than upgrading the seat the bike is stock.

In closing, with bikes what works for one does not work for others and the best bike for you is the one that fits you best and is within your budget. Find a EXCELLENT LBS and work with them to find the bike that's right for you. Do not lock onto a brand or model and be flexible.

Excellent suggestion!  I'll be going in next week for a bike fitting then I'll be on the hunt for what looks to be a road bike (based on all of the valuable input from everyone on this thread).

Again THANKS!

My current ride is Felt S22 custom build (6' and 215lbs) with ultegra sl/ dura ace components bontrager rims. Just finished my third season on this bike and have had no issues rides well (just wish the engine was faster)

I currently have two mountain bikes that are giants and my first roadie was a trek pilot 1.2 that I used for 3 tris my first season. All are/ were great bikes.

IMHO based on my current experience (3 seasons) and ability (avg 17-18mph) and if I had to make the decision you have in front of you... I would go for an alloy road bike (brand name not such a huge deal) with good components (where the price REALLY changes) and add aerobars if you move up to doing an Olympic or Sprint with a long bike leg.

If you stick to a fairly big name (Fuji, Giant, Felt, Cervelo, Trek, etc) you should be fine just make sure the bike fits you well. The components should be Shimano 105, SRAM Rival, or Campagnolo Centaur or better (my personal preferences).

Its been a while since I shopped for a bike but... new road bikes with the above components will likely range between $1200 - $2000 and if you go up in components the price goes up. If you drop down to the next rung of $1200 or less you may get the above components but the bikes will most likely not have a brand name brake or handle bars or rims.

Used roadies (3 - 4 seasons old) may only cost you half as much. It is now the end of season... you may get lucky and find someone who is looking to upgrade. Check on the classifieds here on BT or craigslist.

Buying a bike is an EXPENSIVE and DAUNTING task... take you time ask A LOT of questions. Tell the shop guys that you are new and what to look for in bikes. A good bike shop will explain the different levels of newb, intermediate, and bike porn (the $3000 plus rides). Ride the $4000 bike and feel the way the shifters shift, brakes brake, etc. then test the $1000 bike. You should FEEL the difference in the cost.

There are more things to discuss but I have rambled enough. good luck on your search.

Like, and follow, the ideas of a Road Bike.  I'm in season 3 of the fitness makeover and have went from nearly 300lbs to just over 200, and have completed the HIM Florida; all on a Road Bike.  I can ride the drops for long distances now that my flexability is better; point to consider on a tri-bike.  Plus I believe that you need to walk before you can run and gaining bike handeling skills on a road bike will be better in the long run.  I also feel that a road bike frame configuration should stay that way.  True, aerobar clip on's have been used by many and I don't discount their use.  I just believe that when the time comes that you are looking to be really serious about your triathlon adventures that is the time to purchase a dedicated Tri-Bike.  For now, I would look into a nice intro road bike with perhaps a 105 group set that only puts you back between $750 - $1000.  Ride it, get really really good at handeling it, use it in some tri's and then see where you want to be.
Best wishes to you for changing your life..!!

Step 1: Get a professional fit. Your specialist will have you in the saddle in the final adjustment for at least 15-30 mins. Here you will be able to tell if your body is comfortable enough to ride in aero. I was fitted for a tri bike this spring but my stomach pudge kept me from really getting what I needed out of the position. I decided to not purchase a tri bike at that time. Now after my 2nd season I am tighter and lighter and now feel that what's left of my pudge isn't going to interfear with my riding. If you feel comfortable in the dropdowns for 50 or so miles you will be ok in aero. Step 2: buy a bike that fits your body and budget. I'm 5'2" so there are not a lot of bikes makers out there that will have a bike that fits my frame. Just like buying running shoes you don't look at the color, you go with what works best. Good luck!

I went though this question over the summer.  I knew that where I live, I have a ton of hills and I was training for Savageman so I opted for a road bike.  I got the Trek 2.3 and I really love the bike.  I've had it for a few months and I still think she is a sexy bike.

If I can get myself to the point where I can average 20mph over my normal routes, I will treat myself to a tri bike.  I think a Trek Speed Concept 2.5 would be a nice, inexpensive addition.



Edited by Pector55 2010-09-28 2:24 PM

Well.. id say get a road bike first... I've owned Trek and Fuji... I love Trek bikes but my Fuji is some much smoother... You can put aero bars on it.. Tri bikes such on Hills..

Hence the reason it good to own both ...

Go out and ride a few brands.. decide what you like, what you can live without.. Honestly there is no wrong choice.. Think about the riding you do and want to do.. that should detetmine the bike you purchase.

I purchased an entry level Trek 1500SLR and bolted on Profile Jammer GT aero bars. The bike worked fine for over two years as I developed my fitness, speed and skill.  I am waiting on my Trek speed concept 7 to arrive in a few weeks and intend on converting my 1500 into a "mostly" road bike only ride. 

if it is going to be your first bike then get a mid grade entry road bike. don't kill your pockets on the most highend bike.   get the road they can be used so much more that a tri bike. I mean if you do a few tri and don't like it then your pretty much stuck with a bike that is not good for just regualar riding, group ride. most road races don't allow arrow bars.  but with a road you can use it for group , road race, throw on some aero bars and time trial, and tri's are two more doors that you have opened up. plus with being a clyde your going to drop the weight fast first starting off and your body geometry is going to change.

I use a 2.1 trek and love it.

This is good question that has been asked by many people.  There are many pros/cons with either choice.  I got into TRIs with a road bike and was lucky to trade it in for my Tri bike:  from LiteSpeed 105s Alumnium to Specialized Transition Pro Carbon Dual Aces.  It is hard to explain to others if I would do it again, road bike then Tri bike.  I have to remember what it was like riding a road bike for the first time; how difficult it was, learning to balance on a narrow tire, changing gears, attacking hills, being comfortable riding in traffic or next to cars, being comfortable riding on crud/gravel/over holes in the road, learning to use bike clipless pedals, etc.  If you can find a bike store that allows trade ins or has used one, then a road bike at first is probably the best choice. You get through the learning stage of biking.  If you can't find a bike store that can do this, then maybe look at ebay. The key will be finding the bike that fits your body and then going to get a true bike fit afterwards. So, this may mean two trips to the bike store, 1) for a understanding of what bike size fits your body, e.g. 52, 54, or 56 etc  or M, L, XL (some bike companies only have these general sizes), afterwards buy a cheap bike on ebay/local bike store , 2) after you get some experience, go buy a Tri bike.   While I would hate to spend $1000 on a road bike and later spend $2000 on a TRI bike, the question is would you rather wreck a $2000 bike or a $1000 bike?  Besides, if you kept it in good shape, you probably get rid of the road bike on ebay at costs or 80% money back.