36/50 vs 34/50

Wait, there's a $50 price increase just to go with a smaller small chainring?

Uh, I think the chainring itself would be less -- you could get the 50/36 and then buy the 34 alone, and swap it out yourself and still be money ahead.

Unless I'm missing something that should be obvious...

yeah I thought it was pretty odd too. I found the 36/50 for $105. The cheapest I can find a 34/50 is $145.50. So, it's really a $40 difference but I still don't see why. Is there really a big enough difference between the 34 and 36 that an average cyclist would notice?

do you notice much when climbing and changing from your next lowest to the lowest?  that will basically be the same affect.  the 36 will make a dramatic enough change from your current setup in my opinion.  if the 36 doesn't do the job, I'd suggest more hill work than getting a 34.

>jerseywalt

Probably because 99+% of compacts are 34/50 and not 36. The 36's aren't selling, hence, are discounted to move them out.

Personally, I'd go 34. Why make the switch for a subtle difference? The potential bailout gear on a long ride and having that 34x25 available after 60 hard miles and you want to just get home makes it worth it. Rather than going 36, hell, keep your standard crankset and buy a 12x27 and a standard crankset 38t inner ring from Salsa or White and save a ton.

BTW: Gossamer is a nice crankset. I had one on my cyclocross bike for a while and it behaved very nicely.

I use 50/36 combination on both my road bikes... to me, the 36 is small enough (and NH is definitely not flat!) yet the difference between the two rings is not too extreme. I always felt like I almost stalled when I went to the 34 (too much drop in gear inches), whereas the 36 feels perfectly natural.

Just my experience.

That was my worry as well. I've also read that shifting quality can really suffer when dropping from a 50 to a 34. Thanks very much for the feedback everyone.

Never had a problem with shifting quality with either a 50/34 or a 50/36, but the gear ratio drops too much for me when using a 34, hence my choice of sticking with a 36. Just to clarify.

Shifting works fine..I have compacts on all my bikes other than my cross bike which came with I think 48/36 but I swapped out to a 34 very quickly.

You can always change the chain ring if you want if the 36 doesn't cut it. I'd check out the price of the chain ring  and if you could swap it out yourself if you opted for the cheaper 50/36.

In listening to others opinions consider how strong a cyclist they are to you. Someone that uses xxx gearing finds it works well for them in their ability, weight and hills. What will work for you will vary. Best way is to ask someone you know who has similar ability to you.

I really like 50/36 over 50/34. I run that on both my road and tri bikes, which see a lot of climbing. On my roadie I run a 23 and on the Tri bike a 25 rear.

You don't mention what ratio your cassette is? Unless you are already running a 28-12 or similar, I would look at that as an option. If it is hilly, then there is likely to be enough downhill to make you want your 53 back. You are most likely going to suffer up the hills anyway, so why make the downhills frustrating too?

If however you are still choosing between the 34 and the 36, I would save the $40 and go with the 36. Either way it's going to be easier than the 39, which is your point of reference, so you are unlikely to feel the difference between the two.

If you want to get really technical, you can go to www.sheldonbrown.com and work out the various gear sizes and set your mind at ease.