chain ring sizing

My initial question is WHY?  Do you have 650c wheels that you need the larger chainring up front?

My coach who AVERAGES 25-26mph in his triathlons doesn't even turn a 54T.

Ok, that being said...

You may find that your chain will not drop properly into your 38T from the 54T.  Be sure that if you, in fact, change to a 54T or ... god forbid a 55T you read the manufacturers recommendations on mating.  Chainrings go in pairs (or triples for a triple crank) and have specifically engineered spacings/offsets of the teeth (when compared to each other) so that the chain can fluidly switch from the small to the big and back down to the small.  That's the reason you see the little arrows on the chainrings so that installation is properly done in order to effectuate this smooth transition back and forth on each chainring.

BTW, never heard of Boone titanium chain rings but they sound like a big waste of money on the surface.

Do you really "bottom out" a 53X11 setup??

It sure seems to work for the pros..  (and if you are running a 12-25 or 12-27 in the back, why not just change to a 11-23?)  The difference is about 3 mph slower on a 53X12 vs. 53X11 at 85 RPM.

I'd leave it alone, or buy a "matched set" of chainrings from campy or shimano if you really want to change them out..

(I wouldn't really call it an upgrade)

Unless you're on a 650 bike, or can crank out about 30mph on the flats, you don't need anything larger than a 53. You'll just be adding useless weight.

BUt with a 54/55, you'd need a 42 nner ring for your shifting to be acceptable. And if you go with a 42, you'd better be a very strong climber, or never ride significant hills.