Cycling Shoes, Racing Bikes

Hi there! Ron may be able to answer this better than I can, but I'll try.
I just switched to clipless pedals and got a pair of AXO shoes. There are quite a few brands to choose from. If you're planning on using them in a race, look for ease of getting them on and off,have maybe 1 or 2 velcro straps at the most.
As far as the bike goes, it depends on how serious you are in doing these tris. I have a Giant OCR road bike with aero bars I recently had installed (I love em!). If you spend about 6 or 7 hundred dollars on a bike, you should be set. You can also spend a couple thousand on a tri specific bike with all the goodies, but most of us don't have that kind of money- I sure don't. You can do it on a mountain bike, but if you want to get a race bike, why don't you just wait and get what you really want instead of spending the down payment on a cheap mountain bike-unless you're going to use it for other things. How does that sound?

I agree that you shouldn't just go out and spend money on a mountain bike if that is not what you are going to use down the road. Make sure that whatever bike you get on, it is sized correctly for you. If you go out and buy a bike at a retail store, you probably want end up with a bike that fits you.

If you go to a bike shop in your local area, chances are they are going to make sure that the bike you get will be set up specifically for you, which will make you or should make you feel comfortable on the bike.

If you are not currently using tri specific shoes, I would just buy the toe clips and use your running shoes like Ron said. If you think that the shoes are a must, Lake makes a tri specific shoe that is reasonable and if you can catch a "last years model" you can get them for under $50. Remember that you will have to buy your pedals to get set up. If you are just starting out and plan on purchasing a new bike later on, I don't think it is worth the expense right now. I would wait until you get your new bike. Many bike shops will offer you discounts if you buy a package deal.
Just my 2 cents
Michael

i have just purchased a pair of new cycling shoes, i bought the specialized shoes; i forget what the model is, but i paid about 50 dollars for them, and they are great. as for a bike, i was in the same boat. i fixed up an old road bike and was using that, but then it started falling apart, so i went out and got a tri specific bike. i bought the cannondale 700 multisport series. it was a little pricey, but worth the money
-steve

I am also inclined to agree with Michael. Dont go and blow a lot of cash straight up. This is two fold. first "learn to crawl before you run", in other words get what you can when you can, within your budget. Secondly we have a saying here "all the gear and no idea". That probably explains itself.
To get the right set up you need the experience to know what suits you. Everyone would love a $4000 dollar bike and accys. The "last years" range comment is the way I went, shoes and bike ( bike a Felt and shoes Sidi TR1). I saved a bucket load !!
Remember its a sport, challenging however enjoyable/and belive it or not fun !
I dont thinks any of us that are giving you suggestions have had the same questions at some stage.

Got to be in it to win it

Craig

Though I'm not a tri-kid I have worked in and managed bike shops since I was 15.

1) Shoes or no shoes?
OVER VIEW:
Buy shoes. First, if you are spending alot of time on the bike, the stiffer soles on the shoes will distribute your weight evenly across the sole so that you do not develop "hot spots" in the front part of your foot. It will also help to transfer more energy into the pedal stroke. This benefit is there whether or not you decide to use clipless pedals... in other words, it will work with platform pedals or cages.

SIZING:
First, TRY ON DIFFERENT SIZES. Most cycling shoes are sized euro. (about size 36-50) The sizes DO NOT translate directly to American sizing and as in other shoe manufacturers, one brand's size 45 may too big and another's 45 may be too small.
Second, take you time. You probably won't wear through these shoes (I ride 150+ miles a week and have had the same shoes for 3 years) soon. So think of it as an investment.
Third, Like running shoes you should have about a half inch gap between your big toe and the end of the shoe when you're standing up. Your foot will slide forward and swell during a decent ride. If you get shoes that fit "perfectly" when you try them on in the store, your toes will get mashed.
Fourth, If you try the shoes on and walk around your heel should slip out just a little bit. This is because the sole is hard and not meant to flex. Obviously, you don't have the same type of movement on a bike that you do while walking or running. Don't worry too much about getting a blister.

Recommendations:
Out of 10 or so brands I've tried out and sold, I'm recommending SIDI or NORTHWAVE. Both are Italian and are very consistant in manufacturing. They can run from $100-$300+ depending on what you want. MTB, Road, or TRI shoes are available.If you have a normal/narrow foot buy Sidi. IF you have a fat foot buy Northwave. There's a difference of about half a centemeter in width between the two.

AS for CLIPLESS PEDALS: There's alot to say here. It's easy to get confused here too.
There are two major differences:
Road clipless pedals generally have 1 sided entry and a larger surface area.
MTB clipless pedals are generally dual sided and have a smaller ("SPD") surface area.
If you have knee problems you need to make sure that there's enough "float" (the amount of degrees your foot can spin laterally on an axis underneath the balls of your feet) SPD shoes generally offer 4-8 degrees of float. Look pedals are about 8 degrees. and a company named SPEEDPLAY offers something like 20 degrees of float. It's personal preference. I've ridden them all at different times. My racing bike now has the Look 397s on them.

BIKES:

Buying a "road" bike is a much larger investment than buying a hybrid or mt bike. Trek's entry level road bike is about $600. Their MTB 800 starts somewhere around $200. If you are going to buy something that costs over $400 from a bike store make sure the guys there know what they're doing. Just because you're in a bike shop doesn't mean that the employees know what they're doing. When you finally buy a bike make sure the store is willing watch you ride the bike in a stationary trainer to make sure seat height and stem length is correct. (A GOOD BIKE STORE WILL SWAP A STEM AT NO COST TO YOU)

A good rule of thumb is to over buy when you buy a bike. At that point you can't blame your lack of success on the bike. AND you have the ability to grow into the bike. Always buying for your skill level means that you'll get frustrated sooner. Yes, I know its easier for me to say that because I work in a bike shop but it's the same thing I'd tell my brother or a customer or my mom. It's true. I buy by that rule.

SIGNS of a good bike store: They have a shop area that is visible from the "showroom floor." It is will lit, clean and they haven't put stickers everywhere. They carry brands like Serotta, Seven, Waterford, Colnago, Independent Fabrications. Tune-ups cost more thatn $50 bucks and include a bike wash. There are no teen-age kids working as mechanics. They can tell you the difference between brands. They offer delivery. They are afiliated with a racing team, veledrome, or sponsor races.


Hmm, I hope that helps.
if you have more questions feel free to email me.

WOW, what a thorough answer!

I've always been a bit scared about using clipless pedals. I did buy a pair of Shimano bike shoes to use in my spin class so I'm getting a little less nervous of the whole clip in and out deal. I'll probably advance to clipless on my bike this fall.

TJ