spare bike tire question

I have some slime and bontrager tubes for spares. Bontrager because that's what my LBS sells. I haven't used the slime tube yet, but I might swap it out to try it.

-Frank

It's sad but I know how to change the tire on my car but I don't know the first thing about tires on bikes. I have a spare tube in the carrying case under my saddle. Wouldn't know what to do with it. No clue what kind it is, maybe Specialized. The box looks like this...

http://www.specialized.com/SBCEqSuperSection.jsp?ssid=Tubes

The guy at the bike store said I needed one. He was cute so I bought it.

Sorry I'm no help but if you were asking about a car tire...

i can understand that!

well, if there was a cute gal in the LBS i would just about buy anything even if i didn't know what the hell it was. haha

i am such a sucker!!!!

Edited by Live2Tri 2004-09-21 3:31 PM

Performance Brand. By the ten-pack:

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile_combo.cfm?SKU=14301&est...

Hold air just as good as the $6 tube, 10 for $20, less 20% coupon, less 10% TP points, about $1.44 per tube.

Normally I run Specialized brand tubes that have the Airlock slime stuff in them. The tube I carry in the seat bag is sometimes the same type, or just a normal tube. I'm not really big on brand-specific.

I don't carry a spare tire with me. If the tire itself rips I ususally boot it with a dollar bill, empty gu packet, etc, which is enough to get home. But that rarely happens.

Well, if you're a real "weight-weenie", there is a difference from tube to tube in the weight, but I don't think it is necessarily all that significant... there's probably also some difference in strength and puncture resistance, but again it's probably minor.

I've used the slime tubes, and I'm removing them... they do seal up small punctures, but I've noticed two things... They tend to plug up the (presta) valve, and if they sit for a while, the slime oozes to the bottom and causes a noticeable wheel imbalance until its been redistributed by rotation. I've also heard some horror stories about the mess they make if the tube gets cut instead of punctured...

I'd strongly suggest practicing a tire change at home before you need to do it on the road. It's pretty easy, and there are lots of howtos on the web. Here's one:

http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/skills/fixflat.htm

Basically, it goes like this:

1. Remove the wheel from the bike
2. Deflate the tire
3. Remove one side of the tire from the rim using the tire levers (you DO have tire levers, right? the Park versions are $3)
3a. Insert the tab end of the lever between the rim and tire so it will "hook" the "bead" on the tire
3b. Pull down and hook the "hook" end of the lever on a spoke. This will hold the lever in place.
3c. Go about 1-2 spokes to one side, insert and pull down the second lever the same way.
3d. Alternately release a lever and slide it down, pulling the bead off the rim until the whole rim pops off.
4. Pull the tube out. You may have to remove the little nut around the valve stem if it's a Presta.
5. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP: Inspect the tire AND the rim!!!
5a. Run your finger around the inside of the tire and feel to make sure it's smooth and there isn't something sticking through it.
5b. Run your finger around the inside of the rim to make sure there isn't a spoke poking through or something.
5c. Check the base of the valve stem on the bad tube to see if it's torn...
5d. Inspect the outside of the tread and remove anything that's caught in it. If it's a smooth tire, this should be easy.
6. Put the spare tube in. You DO have a spare tube, right? In a race, you don't have time to patch it, and on the road, it's just easier to use a spare.
6a. Insert the valve in the rim hole CAREFULLY. make sure it goes in straight without binding.
6b. stuff the rest of the tube evenly in the tire. A little bit of inflation will make this easier.
7. Put the tire back on the rim.
7a. Use the tire levers kindof in reverse to push the bead back and down into the rim area.
7b. Make sure none of the tube is caught between the rim and the tire bead. If it is, it will pinch flat.
8. Re-inflate.
9. Put your tools away and ride like you stole it.
10. When you get home, you have a lovely opportunity to learn how to patch the tire.

Obviously, getting the tire on and off the rim is the hard part, but even a little practice in the comfort of home will make this a snap.

ALWAYS make sure to inspect the tire and rim before installing the new tube. You don't want to flat your spare on the same piece of glass that killed your first tube.

And remember, there are two kinds of cyclists... those who have flatted, and those who will. :-)

Thank goodness there are only dudes at my LBS.  I spend enough money there already!  I would hate to know how much I would spend if there was a couple of cuties working there!  Sucker #2 present and accounted for!

I have tried two different kinds of slime tubes and some performance brand tubes and now I am using Continental race lite (or something like that) exclusively, they are light and I have not had a flat since switching, can't say the same for slime, they sucked, I like them for my MTB though. They are about $3.50 at Performance and I only need to keep 1 spare around.

I buy whatever tubes are available when I stock up at the local bike shop, mostly Specialized or Michelin, which are a bit more expensive. I usually buy about 5 or 6 in the spring just prior to the new season along with a few patch kits. Do NOT get the glueless patches; they are okay for lower pressure tires but totally worthless for road tires. As Bigtwindad recommends, practice changing tires and tubes; it will come in very handy some day. I just got a flat yesterday afternoon and instead of feeling maudlin about it, I simply kept my good humour, changed the tube, and was off in less than 2 minutes...hey,practice makes perfect!

Also, when I do a tri, I tape a mini-pump across my aero bars and stuff a spare tube along with 2 tire irons in my jersey back pocket.